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tools:lasercutter [2019/01/02 22:16]
tools:lasercutter [2019/02/13 17:29]
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 </​WRAP>​ </​WRAP>​
  
-=== State of Operation (2019-01-01): === +=== State of Operation (2019-02-12): === 
-The chiller is leaking coolant water. It needs to be opened upinspected, and depending ​on where the leak is either repaired or that part replaced. After this it will need topping up with demineralised water & any air bubbles bled out of the system. No lasering until the cooling system works again. +Operationalbut with a few caveats. Something ​on the right side of the Y-axis is making a grinding/​clunking noise, potentially a bearing ​that'​s ​going badand this needs investigating sooner rather than later. We recommend you break your job up into multiple small parts in case something fails part-way. We also don't have complete library of cutting/​marking/​engraving ​settings ​after the machine's recent upgradesso please ​understand that there'​s a good chance ​we'll have to spend some time trying ​to work out the right settings ​for your job first (including if it's the same material but a different thickness). Some of the Smoothieboard settings still haven'​t been dialled in perfectly for the new tube either, like the tickle power or even the laser'​s raw output power. Also keep in mind that not only will this be time-consuming for the Supervisors (who are volunteers who get nothing for volunteering their time), but because we're still optimising the internal settings then even if we worked them out for you one week we may need to work them out from scratch again only a week later if something ​else has changed. You will need one of the Laser Supervisors to help you begin & end your job. Tuesday Open Nights are the best time to catch one as there'​s normally more than one Laser Supervisor present anyway. If that's not suitable try [[https://​discord.gg/​avtkH5t|Discord chat]] or [[https://​forum.hsbne.org/​c/​cause-effect/​digital-fabrication|the forums]]. If you'd like to help improve ​& maintain ​this machine, talk to either ​one of the Laser Supervisors or the Digifab cause leader.
- +
-Once that'​s ​fixedthere'few internal Smoothieboard ​settings ​that could be improved to produce a better cut, such as its tickle power. And the power output to the laser isn't set as high as it could be as well. Plus//all// cutting & engraving profiles we had previously worked out for //all// materials of //all// thicknesses are invalid and need to be worked out again. Please ​understand that in the short-term, if you need to use this machine then we will need to perform ​some test cuts on your desired material first to work out the right settings. Also keep in mind that not only will this be time-consuming for the Supervisors (who are volunteers who get nothing for volunteering their time), but because we're still optimising the internal settings then even if we worked them out for you one week we may need to work them out from scratch again only a week later+
- +
-The good news is that it's currently around 30% more powerful than it was before, and we're positive we can boost that number even higher with proper settings optimisation. The new gear is definitely more capable of more oomf than the old stuff! :) +
- +
-<​del>​Fully operational,​ but note that our laser tube is getting old and runs at a reduced power. Also note that because we're still real-world testing the new air assist'​s compressor, we recommend you break your job up into multiple small parts in case something ​fails. You will need one of the Laser Supervisors to help you begin & end your job. Tuesday Open Nights are the best time to catch one as there'​s normally more than one Laser Supervisor present anyway. If that's not suitable try [[https://​discord.gg/​avtkH5t|Discord chat]] or [[https://​forum.hsbne.org/​c/​cause-effect/​digital-fabrication|the forums]]. If you'd like to help improve this machine, talk to one of the Laser Supervisors or check out our Trello for our current to-do list.</​del>​+
  
 ====== Specifications ====== ====== Specifications ======
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   * **Location:​** [[:​digitalfabrication|Digital Fabrication Room]]   * **Location:​** [[:​digitalfabrication|Digital Fabrication Room]]
   * **Power:** 50W power supply, 60W glass tube, 62mm diameter, 1220mm long (could fit 1250mm maximum) ​   * **Power:** 50W power supply, 60W glass tube, 62mm diameter, 1220mm long (could fit 1250mm maximum) ​
-  * **Wavelength:​** CO<​sub>​2</​sub>​ infra-red 10.6μm+  * **Wavelength:​** CO<​sub>​2</​sub>​ infra-red 10.6µm
   * **Lens:** 18mm diameter, 50.8mm focal length, GaAs lens   * **Lens:** 18mm diameter, 50.8mm focal length, GaAs lens
   * **Mirrors:​** TBD   * **Mirrors:​** TBD
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   * **Software:​** [[https://​inkscape.org/​en/​|Inkscape]] for modelling, [[http://​hci.rwth-aachen.de/​visicut|Visicut]] to generate the necessary [[http://​smoothieware.org/​supported-g-codes|Gcode]].   * **Software:​** [[https://​inkscape.org/​en/​|Inkscape]] for modelling, [[http://​hci.rwth-aachen.de/​visicut|Visicut]] to generate the necessary [[http://​smoothieware.org/​supported-g-codes|Gcode]].
   * **Other Features:** Liquid cooled with ambient temperature heat exchanger, filtered air intake, exterior-located air extraction system, filtered shop air for the air assist   * **Other Features:** Liquid cooled with ambient temperature heat exchanger, filtered air intake, exterior-located air extraction system, filtered shop air for the air assist
-  *  Max Temp of water chiller is 30°C, ​if this is exceeded cutting power is reduced ​the chances of the laser tube cracking ​increase ​exponentially+  *  Max Temp of water chiller is 30°C, this cannot be exceeded ​as not only is cutting power reduced, the tube's lifespan dramatically drops plus the chances of the laser tube catastrophically ​cracking ​increases ​exponentially
  
 ====== Usage Guide ====== ====== Usage Guide ======
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 Because we haven'​t sorted out 100% of everything involved, inductions for the laser cutter are currently a long process taking many one-on-one sessions that end up taking at least a month, and inducted members still have many restrictions placed on them (eg only certain specific materials/​types of cuts that are known good, not the entire library in Visicut as the library currently has many dud profiles). Again because we don't have everything sorted out and because they have to be essentially done one-on-one, inductions take //a lot// of Supervisor time, and the Supervisors are only volunteers that get nothing in return for volunteering all their time too. It's not worth the large amount of volunteer time if you're only needing a handful of future cuts. So unless you plan to regularly cut a //lot// of separate jobs over a long period of time, the Laser Supervisors would rather just supervise you on individual jobs because it's far quicker and easier for everyone. If this is a burning (pun intended) passion of yours though, we suggest you start by reading through both [[https://​www.repairfaq.org/​sam/​lasersam.htm|Sam'​s Laser FAQ]] and IEC 60825.1. As with both the laser cutter itself and the rest of the Hackerspace in general, help improving this system is always welcome. Because we haven'​t sorted out 100% of everything involved, inductions for the laser cutter are currently a long process taking many one-on-one sessions that end up taking at least a month, and inducted members still have many restrictions placed on them (eg only certain specific materials/​types of cuts that are known good, not the entire library in Visicut as the library currently has many dud profiles). Again because we don't have everything sorted out and because they have to be essentially done one-on-one, inductions take //a lot// of Supervisor time, and the Supervisors are only volunteers that get nothing in return for volunteering all their time too. It's not worth the large amount of volunteer time if you're only needing a handful of future cuts. So unless you plan to regularly cut a //lot// of separate jobs over a long period of time, the Laser Supervisors would rather just supervise you on individual jobs because it's far quicker and easier for everyone. If this is a burning (pun intended) passion of yours though, we suggest you start by reading through both [[https://​www.repairfaq.org/​sam/​lasersam.htm|Sam'​s Laser FAQ]] and IEC 60825.1. As with both the laser cutter itself and the rest of the Hackerspace in general, help improving this system is always welcome.
  
-Becoming a Laser Supervisor is a decision made by the Digifab Cause Leader on advice of the other Laser Supervisors. Normally this is only done when we need another one (too many and we end up with a "​[[https://​www.youtube.com/​watch?​v=QrGrOK8oZG8|too many cooks in the kitchen]]"​ scenario). You'll need to know things like calibrating the optics, reading/​writing G-code, diagnosing faults both software and hardware, repairing and/or replacing components, etc. Basically it's the Supervisors'​ job to fix this machine when other people break it, and if you're a Supervisor it's expected you will regularly put in the hours required to both Supervise others and keep this machine running ​well.+Becoming a Laser Supervisor is a decision made by the Digifab Cause Leader on advice of the other Laser Supervisors. Normally this is only done when we need another one (too many and we end up with a "​[[https://​www.youtube.com/​watch?​v=QrGrOK8oZG8|too many cooks in the kitchen]]"​ scenario). You'll need to know things like calibrating the optics, reading/​writing G-code, diagnosing faults both software and hardware, repairing and/or replacing components, etc. Basically it's the Supervisors'​ job to fix this machine when other people break it, and if you're a Supervisor it's expected you will regularly put in the hours required to both Supervise others and keep this machine ​up & running.
  
 ===== Current Laser Supervisors ===== ===== Current Laser Supervisors =====
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 ===== Suitable Materials ===== ===== Suitable Materials =====
-  * Acrylic/​Plexiglass/​Perspex+  * Acrylic/​Plexiglass/​Perspex/​Lucite/​Acrylite
   * Most woods   * Most woods
   * MDF   * MDF
-  * Plywood (as long as the glue is laser cutter safe & doesn'​t contain metallic particles)+  * Plywood (as long as it says the glue is laser cutter safe & doesn'​t contain metallic particles)
   * Paper/​cardboard (watch it like a hawk for fires though)   * Paper/​cardboard (watch it like a hawk for fires though)
   * Cork   * Cork
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   * Vinyl   * Vinyl
   * Artificial leather, pleather, moleskine etc   * Artificial leather, pleather, moleskine etc
-  * Polycarbonate/​Lexan/​Makrolon (melts & burns, smokes like crazy & gives an unevenly ​lumpy & discoloured edge)+  * Polycarbonate/​Lexan/​Makrolon (melts & burns, smokes like crazy & gives an uneven, ​lumpy & discoloured edge)
   * Polystyrene,​ including common Polystyrene foam   * Polystyrene,​ including common Polystyrene foam
   * Nylon (it melts & burns)   * Nylon (it melts & burns)
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 This section is NOT a substitute for either having a Laser Supervisor around or being inducted, but a quick reminder on the individual steps involved for those who have already been inducted. Each one of these items could easily be expanded into a few paragraphs of specific do's and don'ts that are being glossed over. So don't read this and think that you now know how to use the laser cutter. This section is NOT a substitute for either having a Laser Supervisor around or being inducted, but a quick reminder on the individual steps involved for those who have already been inducted. Each one of these items could easily be expanded into a few paragraphs of specific do's and don'ts that are being glossed over. So don't read this and think that you now know how to use the laser cutter.
  
-  * Make or load your design in Inkscape+  * Make or load your design in Inkscape. We **strongly** recommend you make it entirely within Inkscape if possible, or otherwise download Inkscape, convert it yourself and check everything'​s imported correctly on your own computer before even organising a time with a Laser Supervisor
   * Send the design to Visicut   * Send the design to Visicut
   * Position/​scale/​rotate the design on the bed in Visicut   * Position/​scale/​rotate the design on the bed in Visicut
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 ===== Inkscape ===== ===== Inkscape =====
-[[https://​inkscape.org/​en/​|Inkscape]] is a free, open-source,​ vector-based drawing application that we use with the laser cutter. It's available for Windows, Mac OS and most distributions of Linux. You can draw your design directly in Inkscape or load it from an existing SVG/​AI/​DXF/​PDF/​etc vector file that you've downloaded or created in other software. It's possible to trace a raster bitmap eg JPG/​PNG/​GIF/​BMP/​etc within Inkscape, but this often needs some manual fixing to get it right. We recommend you install Inkscape on your own computer and have your design tested & ready to go beforehand, so you don't take up too much time using the laser cutter'​s computer to fiddle with your design.+[[https://​inkscape.org/​en/​|Inkscape]] is a free, open-source,​ vector-based drawing application that we use with the laser cutter. It's available for Windows, Mac OS and most distributions of Linux. You can draw your design directly in Inkscape or load it from an existing SVG/​AI/​DXF/​PDF/​etc vector file that you've downloaded or created in other software. We strongly recommend you either create your design directly within Inkscape, or you download Inkscape, import it & check it's imported correctly yourself first as some software packages don't like to export their files into the standard formats that Inkscape supports. This also reduces the amount of time you'll spend fixing things in Inkscape on the laser cutter'​s computer. It's possible to trace a raster bitmap eg JPG/​PNG/​GIF/​BMP/​etc within Inkscape, but this often needs some manual fixing to get it right.
  
 You can either draw the whole assembled design on a single sheet sized for material or the bed, or you can draw individual elements that you arrange later on. The second way is easier for simple jobs, because it means that you don't need to worry about the page size or the location of the design on the page at this point, but the first way gives you more control if you need to fine-tune your layout. If you have lots of fine detail cuts or engraves planned over the whole bed we recommend breaking your design up into 2 or 3 segments, just in case something goes wrong during your job. You can either draw the whole assembled design on a single sheet sized for material or the bed, or you can draw individual elements that you arrange later on. The second way is easier for simple jobs, because it means that you don't need to worry about the page size or the location of the design on the page at this point, but the first way gives you more control if you need to fine-tune your layout. If you have lots of fine detail cuts or engraves planned over the whole bed we recommend breaking your design up into 2 or 3 segments, just in case something goes wrong during your job.
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 ==== Change of Sight ==== ==== Change of Sight ====
-  * This has been said before on this page but it's worth saying again: fire from the point where the machine is cutting is the biggest risk, particularly when cutting wood or materials with paper linings, but it can still potentially happen with other materials like acrylic too. This is the main reason why the laser cutter needs to be watched at ALL times while it's operating, because you need to be there to quickly extinguish the fire before it spreads. If you catch it straight away while it's small then normally you can just pause your job, blow it out, then resume cutting. If it's already too big to blow out, your next options are to either take the material outside if that's the only part currently alight or to go for the fire extinguisher by the door. This is the number one way that laser cutters are destroyed so don't be slow acting here. Cleaning fire extinguisher residue out of a laser cutter is a pain of a job but it's //way// less work than having to replace a few parts or even the whole machine. Tiny spark-like embers that are quickly thrown away from the cutting point & extinguish themselves after a centimeter ​or so are generally fine; this means the air assist is doing its job to remove the ablated material.+  * This has been said before on this page but it's worth saying again: fire from the point where the machine is cutting is the biggest risk, particularly when cutting wood or materials with paper linings, but it can still potentially happen with other materials like acrylic too. This is the main reason why the laser cutter needs to be watched at ALL times while it's operating, because you need to be there to quickly extinguish the fire before it spreads. If you catch it straight away while it's small then normally you can just pause your job, blow it out, then resume cutting. If it's already too big to blow out, your next options are to either take the material outside if that's the only part currently alight or to go for the fire extinguisher by the door. This is the number one way that laser cutters are destroyed so don't be slow acting here. Cleaning fire extinguisher residue out of a laser cutter is a pain of a job but it's //way// less work than having to replace a few parts or even the whole machine. Tiny spark-like embers that are quickly thrown away from the cutting point & extinguish themselves after a centimetre ​or so are generally fine; this means the air assist is doing its job to remove the ablated material.
   * Sometimes the air assist partially dislodges cut pieces & leaves part of them sticking up high enough that a head collision could occur. If that happens, depending on your material it may either bend or snap the offending piece or (more likely) catch onto the rest of your material & move your entire sheet of material a little bit, ruining your job. Pause your job, fix the sticking-up piece, then resume.   * Sometimes the air assist partially dislodges cut pieces & leaves part of them sticking up high enough that a head collision could occur. If that happens, depending on your material it may either bend or snap the offending piece or (more likely) catch onto the rest of your material & move your entire sheet of material a little bit, ruining your job. Pause your job, fix the sticking-up piece, then resume.
   * You should be checking the temperature of the cooler both before starting and repeatedly during use of the laser cutter. If it goes above 29'C you need to stop your job as higher temperatures not only reduce the cutting power of the machine leading to incomplete cuts, but it also exponentially reduces the laser tube's operating life.   * You should be checking the temperature of the cooler both before starting and repeatedly during use of the laser cutter. If it goes above 29'C you need to stop your job as higher temperatures not only reduce the cutting power of the machine leading to incomplete cuts, but it also exponentially reduces the laser tube's operating life.
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 ==== Change of Sound ==== ==== Change of Sound ====
-  * Our cooler purposefully sounds its alarm when it's first turning on to let you know that the alarm'​s sensors & associated circuitry all work, but if you hear this alarm at any other time there'​s something catastrophically wrong with the coolant system. The same can be said about any other buzzing or beeping sound you might hear too. Likely explanations are the coolant hoses have been pinched shut somewhere, a leak has introduced enough air into the coolant loop that it no longer flows, the coolant temperature is absurdly hot (the alarm'​s temperature ​setpoint ​is waaay higher than the point where it'll damage the laser tube), the cooling fans or pump motor are failing & drawing too much current, etc.+  * Our cooler purposefully sounds its alarm when it's first turning on to let you know that the alarm'​s sensors & associated circuitry all work, but if you hear this alarm at any other time there'​s something catastrophically wrong with the coolant system. The same can be said about any other buzzing or beeping sound you might hear too. Likely explanations are the coolant hoses have been pinched shut somewhere, a leak has introduced enough air into the coolant loop that it no longer flows, the coolant temperature is absurdly hot (the alarm'​s temperature ​set point is waaay higher than the point where it'll damage the laser tube), the cooling fans or pump motor are failing & drawing too much current, etc.
   * The extractor fan, which is always on while operating, may get blocked/​jammed or its motor may die while in use. This usually would be detectable as change in pitch, a repetitive ticking or whacking sound, the extractor fan becoming noisier or quieter, or it might just outright die completely. This is a reasonably noisy fan so it should be pretty noticeable if something goes wrong here. Stop your job ASAP so the fumes don't coat the machine'​s entire innards.   * The extractor fan, which is always on while operating, may get blocked/​jammed or its motor may die while in use. This usually would be detectable as change in pitch, a repetitive ticking or whacking sound, the extractor fan becoming noisier or quieter, or it might just outright die completely. This is a reasonably noisy fan so it should be pretty noticeable if something goes wrong here. Stop your job ASAP so the fumes don't coat the machine'​s entire innards.
   * The air assist is a quieter noise but still very important to this machine'​s correct functioning,​ so you need to listen more carefully for this one. While sometimes it will fail suddenly if one of the hoses comes off its connector or a hole forms in one of the hoses or something similar, it can also fail as just gradually getting quieter & quieter until you can't hear it at all. This would happen as the air pressure slowly drops because the air compressor outside has died.   * The air assist is a quieter noise but still very important to this machine'​s correct functioning,​ so you need to listen more carefully for this one. While sometimes it will fail suddenly if one of the hoses comes off its connector or a hole forms in one of the hoses or something similar, it can also fail as just gradually getting quieter & quieter until you can't hear it at all. This would happen as the air pressure slowly drops because the air compressor outside has died.
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 ====== Showcase of Awesome ====== ====== Showcase of Awesome ======
-For a few pics of out stuff, please ​goto the next page:   ​[[tools:​lasercutter2|Laser Pics Page!]] +For a few pics of out stuff, please ​go to the next page: [[tools:​lasercutter2|Laser Pics Page!]] 
-(as embedding the images on this page directly broke it )+(as embedding the images on this page directly broke it)